American-Norwegian Traditions:
The Making of
Lefse
There felt like there was so much
to write about that I could not include it all in the PowerPoint
presentation. So, I have included this
paper to supplement what I have learned during my final project.
Even though I was not able to roll out any rounds
of lefse, this project still provided me with a wonderful opportunity to learn
more about another culture and the traditions associated with that
culture. In this way, it was a very
fulfilling and interesting project--all the more inspiration for me to learn
the wonderful art form of making lefse.
Through my research I saw how
traditions and customs can become misguided among people who are not a part of
that given culture. There are over 50
varieties of lefse! Before this I
thought the only way to make lefse was with potatoes. Furthermore, I have also witnessed the diversity that can be
found within a single culture. As I
stated in my PowerPoint presentation, the way lefse is made and served varies
according to region and familial traditions.
Still, even people within a given culture may believe that their way is
the “right” or “authentic” way of doing something.
This seemed to be the case as I was
searching for an all-encompassing definition for lefse. Everywhere I looked almost every definition
of lefse stated that it was made with potatoes. While this is a very popular way to make lefse in the United
States, it is certainly not the only way.
However, because most Americans make lefse this way that is how it is
defined in many books and websites.
Therefore, another trend I noticed
as I was doing my research was the contradictions and exceptions surrounding
lefse. Below are stories that show not
only some of the contradictions I encountered during my research, but also the
rich diversity and uniqueness found within on culture.
It is said that today people in
Norway no longer eat lefse or lutefisk.
When I asked Ms. Lee about this statement, she said the reason for this
was Norwegians associate these two foods with peasants. While lefse and lutefisk sustained people
during difficult times, Norway is now more prosperous. Therefore, they have more options concerning
their diet.
Still even though many Norwegians do
not eat lefse or lutefisk, Ms. Lee knows there are some people that who to
carry on these traditions in Norway. However, in order to help break the stigma
of lefse being peasant food, it seems that Norwegian may serve lefse in a
non-traditional way. For example, even
though Ms. Lee’s cousin in Oslo enjoys making lefse, the way she serves it is
anything but traditional. “[My cousin]
might fill it with a whipped cream and fruit filling…or crab meat salad.” No matter which way it is served--sugar and
butter, whipped cream and fruit, crabmeat salad… All I can say is, “Yum.”
If people in Norway no longer eat as
much lefse or lutefisk, why is it a tradition that Norwegian-Americans
continue? Ms. Lee said that when her
relatives immigrated, Norway was still going through some difficult times. Therefore, lefse and lutefisk were still
staples in their diet. So in order to
celebrate their past during the holidays Norwegian-Americans would serve the
foods that they associated with their homelands. Even though things have changed since then, this is how past
immigrants remember their homeland.
So, Lefse or Lutefisk?
As I was speaking to Ms. Lee, she
said that between lefse and lutefisk, lefse is more prevalent in Norway. However, when I spoke to a member of the
Sons of Norway, he claimed just the opposite was true. He said hardly anyone in Norway at lefse
anymore, but lutefisk still had its place in their diet. It is difficult to know who to believe because
they both still communicate with relatives in Norway, and they both have
visited the country. Perhaps, neither
is right and neither is wrong, these two views just represent the complexity of
Norway and its people.
Lefse--A Dessert or a Wrap?
When speaking to the same gentleman
as mentioned above, he told me that in Norway lefse was only served after
the meal as a dessert. He said that
the practice of wrapping lutefisk in lefse was only a Norwegian-American tradition
that many Norwegians felt was a taboo. On
the other hand, while reading excerpts from Keeping Christmas: Yuletide Traditions
in Norway and the New Land, the author, Kathleen Stokker, says even though she has heard this statement,
she disputes its truthfulness. On
page 22 she writes, “Plates and forks did not arrive in rural Norway until
the twentieth century. Even after
these urban amenities had spread to the countryside, the custom of placing
lutefisk on the handheld flatbread persisted.”[i] Therefore, this shows another reason why it
is so hard, if not impossible, to try and classify a given culture from only
one perspective.
As I mentioned in my PowerPoint, Ms.
Lee felt quite strongly about lefse being a family tradition. While her daughters are a bit reluctant to
learn, Ms. Lee has enrolled her granddaughters to help her carry on the
tradition. Still in my readings for
this project, I also read of some people who just enjoyed making lefse. Whether they were alone or with a group of
people, the act of making lefse was therapeutic for them. These preferences to making lefse not only
speak of one’s idea of cultural tradition, but also his or her personal
preferences as well.
Nevertheless, one point many people
did agree on was that lefse making was a lot of work. In fact, it is part of the reason Mrs. Elvekrog has reduced her
lefse making production. (Although when
people meet her it might be hard to tell.)
Since Mrs. Elvekrog’s husband passed away, she mentioned that making
lefse is not the same. So, while she
enjoys making lefse and helping out at the Sons of Norway, part of enjoyment
has been lessened since she lost her lefse making partner. In this way, Mrs. Elvekrog seems to have
strong ties to both the familial and personal traditions of lefse making.
As I spoke with people about lefse,
I tried to determine where their lefse making fit into the circles of tradition.
For the most part, it appears as though Ms. Lee, Mrs. Elvekrog and
those I spoke with at the Sons of Norway about lefse making fit into the Perceived
Circle[ii] . While all of these lefse makers have used lefse
to connect with their communities, it is not out of necessity as it once was.
Mrs. Elvekrog spoke of her grandmother helping other women make lefse
on a wood-burning stove because that was part of their everyday life.
However, that is no longer necessary in the Norway or the United States.
The tradition of lefse has, “been
transformed in the context of the twentieth-century American life so that they
bear diminished resemblance in form, technique, or function to the original
practice. While there are some who try
to keep more of the original traditions of lefse making alive, the traditions
are slowly fading away and being replaced by technological gadgets that have
been designed to make lefse making easier.
There are also those who no longer even chose to make lefse. Instead they order their lefse from a store
that mass produces it. In this way,
lefse is still meaningful to many people but the reasons seem more sentimental
rather than need or community- based.
Lefse making is an art form. While talking to lefse makers, there definitely
seems to be tricks of the trade. There
is the type of rolling pin, how a person rolls, pastry sock or no pastry sock,
what to roll the lefse on, how to flip the lefse, how to cool and store it
when it is done. Still while people’s
opinions can help, it seems to just come down to actually doing it. Even though the goal of lefse is, of course,
thin, round pieces with not too much flour, as Mr. Legwold[iii] talks about in
his book there is no such thing as perfect lefse. It comes down to personal preference-- whatever
works for you is best and, oh yes, practice does help, too.
[i] Keeping Christmas: Yuletide Traditions in Norway and the New Land by Kathleen Stoker
[ii] “Circles of Tradition: Folk Arts in Minnesota” by Willard B. Moore, Marion J. Nelson, Colleen J. Sheehy, Thomas Vennum, Jr., Johannes Riedel, and M. Catherine Daly
[iii] The Last Word on Lefse by Gary Legwold